Riding Through Rain to Kalpa – A Nostalgic Journey in Kinnaur Valley
The day at Sarahan started with a heavy downpour. The rain made me restless — should I wait for the skies to clear or push ahead toward Kalpa? After all, it was only about 100 km away. Nostalgia tugged at me too; it had been 10 years since I last rode to Kalpa, and the thought of revisiting it made the decision easier.
So, I packed my bags, loaded up the bike, and brewed myself a steaming cup of tea on my camping stove — a small test for the journeys ahead. Sarahan was shrouded in clouds, apple orchards peeked through the mist, and despite the drizzle, I finally set off.
“Some journeys aren’t about distance, but about revisiting old memories while creating new ones along the road.”
The Thrill of Riding in Rain
The route to Kalpa carved its way alongside the Sutlej River. Misty valleys, waterfalls and the famous cliffhanger roads made the ride unforgettable, even though the looming risk of landslides and shooting stones in the rain kept me on alert.
Near Karchham, my journey came to a halt. A gushing stream had brought slush across the road, forcing me to wait for nearly an hour before the way was cleared. Once past it, the skies opened up a little, semi-clear and welcoming.
A Scenic Route Into Kalpa
Instead of the usual road, I chose a newly built route climbing high above the valley. Smoothly tarred and surprisingly empty, it offered jaw-dropping views into the deep gorge below. An hour’s ride later, I rolled into Kalpa and checked into Zostel — the popular hillside hostel with panoramic views of the town and snow-clad peaks.
Rediscovering Kalpa After 10 Years
Walking through Kalpa’s narrow lanes was both nostalgic and refreshing. The town had changed — with a few new hotels and homestays — but it still retained its raw charm. I visited the temple, monastery, and admired the centuries-old wooden houses that reflected traditional Himachali architecture.
The apple orchards and apricot farms were in full bloom, painting the valley in vibrant shades. A plate of piping hot siddu warmed me up before I strolled back to the hostel. By evening, the clouds lifted, revealing distant camps perched on ridges — the starting point for the famous Kinner Kailash trek.
Sipping tea with that breathtaking view, I couldn’t help but feel grateful. Tomorrow would take me to one of my long-awaited goals — Shipki La Pass, once a trade route with Tibet and now recently opened to civilians.
How to Reach Kalpa
- By Road: Kalpa is well-connected by road via National Highway 5 (NH5). From Shimla, it is around 220 km (8–9 hrs drive). The route passes through Narkanda, Rampur, Jeori, and Karchham.
- By Bus: HRTC buses and shared taxis run regularly from Shimla to Reckong Peo (the district HQ), just 7 km below Kalpa. From there, taxis and local buses go up to Kalpa.
- By Train/Air: The nearest railway station is Shimla (200 km) and the nearest airport is Jubbarhatti Airport, Shimla. Chandigarh (330 km) is a better-connected option for air and rail.
Things to Do in Kalpa
- Visit Suicide Point – a dramatic cliffside viewpoint with incredible valley views.
- Roghi Village Walk – traditional wooden houses, apple orchards, and peaceful village vibes.
- Kinner Kailash Viewpoint – clear mornings often reveal the mighty peak considered sacred.
- Narayan-Nagini Temple & Hu-Bu-Lan-Kar Monastery – spiritual and architectural highlights of Kalpa town.
- Explore Reckong Peo Market – for fresh apples, apricots, and local Himachali delicacies.
- Day Trips – Chitkul (last village on Indo-Tibet border) or Sangla Valley are nearby gems.
Best Time to Visit Kalpa
- Summer (April – June): Pleasant weather, blooming orchards, and clear mountain views.
- Monsoon (July – September): Lush greenery but prone to landslides and roadblocks — caution needed.
- Autumn (September – October): Crisp skies, harvest season for apples, perfect for photography.
- Winter (November – February): Kalpa turns into a snowy wonderland, but accessibility may be difficult.
